The Land of Lefts

There is no shortage of breaks in Chile. It seems that every nook, cranny and bend in this swell pounded coast holds its own take on what an epic lefthand pointbreak should look like. This is not an exaggeration, I am floored by the quantity, and quality, of waves we have seen here. My back, arms and legs are not happy with me, but I am very happy with life at the present. This is only the second opportunity that we have had to work on the blog because we have been too busy surfing and driving between spots. Right now it is 12:20pm, low tide is in two hours and we are looking to score again.

We ate dinner and sat around the campfire with this view.

You can stay right in front of this wave for $20/day, all inclusive.

We have also enjoyed seeing Chile and its culture. Most of the areas that we have seen so far are rural and rustic. Not in a bad way, in the best sense. I am sure that the average person you talk to would be able to voice complaints and areas for improvement of quality of life. Nonetheless,
people are friendly and seem to be happy. Kevin has made a habit of waving at everyone we drive past and he usually gets a wave in return, or at least a blank, "oh my god, that's a huge ginger scarecrow", stare. When we were in Constitucion, looking for Pocha Sandwich, Kevin was a minor attraction and we had kids chasing after our car to help us with directions. Another time, a small shop owner told us that Kevin was the tallest person she had seen in her life: she must have been at least 50.

This guy ran a block to help us with directions after he saw and was amazed by Kevin.

"La China Fuerta" it's no surprise people are amazed when they see such a big Gringo step out of such a small car.

Well, there is more that i could write about, but i really want to get some food before low tide shows up and it's time for another marathon surf session.

Shoots for now everyone!

Genji