And we're back!

Alright folks, I know that was quite a break.  The time back home was much appreciated for both of us, with Genji getting lots of salmon and me getting some good family time, with a bit of carpentry work mixed in.  That all changed when we got to SFO and 52 hours later were on a small island off the coast of a larger island off the coast of North sumatra (an even larger island).  For me it was 5 flights, for Genji is was something like 9, coming all the way from Anchorage, AK.  Our last flight got turned around halfway through due to a lightning storm we were all watching out the windows.  All boards arrived intact and all board bag fees were averted with a smile and the slightest bit of Bahasa Indonesian.  It was a mission to get here, the last leg requiring an hours speedboat crossing and then a 15 minute walk across the island which we now call home.

My boards, in either Medan or Gunung Sitoli, can't recall.  Yay they made it!!!

Driving across Nias, on our way to the harbor to get to the boat to make the crossing.

The last steps of our journey here, to check the surf of course.

And its firing. 

Not to turn this blog into unadulterated surf porn, but it has been firing since we got here 5 days ago. We lucked into south winds and the biggest swell of the season (so far) the 3rd day here.   Let me just say it has been very big and very clean.  Scary big.  The wave is a long left (suprise suprise) over jagged coral reef.  The keyhole in the reef is far from the surf spot and requires a long paddle, and the 50 yards of dead reef lifted caused by the earthquake combined with the heat and humidity make surfing the wave a commitment in terms of hydration and sun protection.  The day to day is a blur of waves, but so far the standout session was on the second evening, just Genji and I out, both getting several barrels and hooting each other into perfect waves.  Ive never had a surf like before, where i kicked out of a barrel not even fully comprehending it, and turning around to see Genji coming down the line in the tube.  Justy crazy. 

This is Olivia.  She lives on the island and is always running around playing hide and seek and cracking us up.  Our hosts here are Earl and Samantha, who live on the island as well and have some guest bungalows.  Earl is from Novato, Ca and took long surf trip several years ago and has been here ever since.  Samantha is his Brazillian girlfriend who charges big surf on her bodyboard.

Indo Evening.

Well for now we are posted up here, and will try to start posting at regular again.  We have internet during generator hours only (6 to 10pm) and thats assuming that there arent any clouds.  Cheers for now.  Kevin