On a whim, partly due to an overwhelmingly large swell, we all decided to head South in search of some rarely surfed, mystery spots that we had heard whisperings of. In four days we put in 2000 kilometers of driving and saw a whole new part of Chile that only the more adventurous surfers will ever experience. It was definitely an adventure and we had a blast, but I am very glad to be back in an area that I know, where life is easier and half the day is not spent driving.
The harbor of a quaint fishing town on the edge of Patagonia.
This beach break was blowing my mind, mostly because it was the first rights i had a chance to surf in over a month. Hollow and rippable! Unfortunately i was out of position and had to duck dive this one; you can see my legs....
Why use a truck? A horse handles deep sand better. You just need a board rack on your saddle.
The coast in the South is more raw and rugged than the Central coast.
I was especially stoked to see unspoilt, native forests. The trees and bushes are so foreign, but very cool looking.
The highlight of the Southern sojourn, a reeling, right hand reef break. Bowling, hollow and powerful! I was in heaven....
The ride home, we didn't get back until well past midnight. The backseat crew couldn't hold out after we stopped for pizza.
As we sit right nowthere is one week of our Chile trip left. It has been great and i am sure that the next week will not fail to keep us up to our eyeballs in surf, food and adventure.
Shoots for now!
-Genji
A friend of mine, Kevin Barnett (originally from Ojai), is on an adventure of a lifetime! He and his buddy, Genji, share the love of surfing, and Kevin is a water-sport aficionado- not unlike their mentors before them, my dear ol' friends; Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson of "Surfer Magazine" & "The Far Shore" film/documentary. The latter well-chronicled surf zealots traveled the world in 1972- to destinations that weren't named let alone mapped. Peterson eagerly snapped photos of Naughton surfing, like there was no tomorrow, then he'd grab his knee-board for his own hit of pure, fluid, adrenaline rush- By dust they'd reminisce of the days events, & memories of hot, scantly-clad-babes parading beaches on far shores. They'd occasionally go through a village that had a post office & find a box to cram as many un-viewed film canisters & scribblings of Kevins fireside storytelling, & vivid tales of wet & pounding surf-
ReplyDeletemore often than not, decidedly inspired by the local libations- they'd send their chronicles via snail-mail back to "Surfer Magazine", all the while praying they'd get published. The multitude of stories of surf breaks down paths & roads that needed machetes to clear- the team surfed, wandered, photographed, and journeyed on their wayward adventure. All the while unbeknownst to them, Neil Stebbins of Surfer Magazine was placing their adventure(s) up front & center- they'd made the cover and featured stories of Surfer Magazine!
Fast forward 3 decades to realtime; Barnett and & Genji are the current day Kevin & Craig; employing the EVER-amazing www to bring us their realtime wet & wild adventure(s). Check out their adventure blog!!! Live like there's no tomorrow! Have a blast, Love Suze McClellan p.s. Kevin we've all decided that even road-kill tastes fabulous with Ojai Jalapeño Jelly or Ojai Habanero Jelly on it!!! Got some waiting for ya!
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Suze McClellan
info@ojaijelly.com
Green Clover Creations
Ojai, California
805.680.7676
805.646.0660 fax
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