The swell arrives

 The swell showed up on time (thanks Mark at http://www.stormsurf.com/ for the on point forecast)   We surfed out front early after being woken up by thunderous sounds.  We then explored other points around and found a left that was long fast and lined up.  It was a very difficult wave to make, and pretty much the only line was in the tube.  We got some great waves there and took some beatings too.  Lots of great waves down here if you are willing to take the time to check down the various coastal roads.   

Most photos below: Credit Ollie (heaps cheers bru)

Dropping in

Long period energy .  Genji gave a good description below of how the sand moves down here.  The beach can go from flat and out to the water with a little river running down it to built up sand berms 20' tall holding a lake in just a day or two.  The takeoff spot at some of these places can move 20 or 30 yards just in a tide change.  it is pretty incredible to see mother nature at work like that, sculpting and then destroying perfect waves.  You have to constantly keep looking around but the benefit is it keeps the crowds down and rewards the curious.

Setting up for the tube on my 6'8

Kev and Jeremy looking at another left.

Would you?  Not as easy as it looks and downright shallow.

Warming back up.  Genji builds a fire in 30 seconds everywhere we go.

Jeremy locking in at spot # 476Zulu. He was the only one that paddled out here.

Rarely surfed spot.  Scary and rocky.  Jerz solo'd it.

Pulling in on a medium sized wave.

Our little base camp with nobody around except lots of waves to mind surf all the way into the rocks.

Top turn out front the first morning of the swell.  Me and Jerz surfed it alone for a few hours.

After the north wind blew, Ruperto and Carlina decided we needed some meat.  We decided to slaughter a pig.  Genji put his expert skills to use and we watched as him and El Jefe (ruperto's nickname) tied the hog, wired its mouth closed, and cut the artery to the heart.  It was pretty intense for all of us except Jefe, Carlina, and Genji who are used to killing animals.  I've hunted before but long range is definitely different than up close.  After the chancho was dead Jefe poured boling water over it and scraped all the hair off it, then it was gutted and butchered on site.  The whole process took about 5 hours.  We had pork neck soup that night, we were all apprecative of the meat and every bone was picked clean.  The guilt from the slaughter translated into wanting to use every part of the pig to the fullest, including the head and organs. 

Genji -  the master at work.

 Ribs are my favorite food, and cooking up a few racks back home has become commonplace for me. After watching this pig go from happy go luck, to afraid and squealing, to being tied up, cut, and soon dead has me at least a little more thankful and respectful of the abundance of food and meats we have back home.  Well thats all for now, looks like a big swell and good winds lining up for next week so we will be waiting to see how it all comes together.  Living the dream on 25 bucks a day, life is good. 
-Kevin