We have been posted up on a Southern point for nearly 2 weeks now and we have been scoring. Being in front of a wave all the time really pays off because when all the conditions line up, you are there and ready to paddle out. All of the waves we have surfed so far are left points that break over a sand bar and as you might expect, these bars are in constant motion. The condition of a point's sand is effected by wind, tide and swell. Some waves work in certain seasons, some need big swells to deposit sand, some get killed by big swells and sometime a wave will work one year and be non-existant the next. The wave in front of where we are staying is in top form right now and has as good of a bank as I have ever seen. The last couple days have been an arm punishing marathon of top quality waves; after four hours this morning, I can hardly move...
The truck after a joiny surf chack/wood gathering mission.
"Locos", a lot like miniature Abalone, very tasty and pretty abundant, but you need a really low tide and no waves to get them.
Fresh Corvina from a net set just inside the line-up.
A rather extraordinary sunset from a few days back.
Between surfing and eating we have ample time to hang out with the puppies. This is Rambo.
Rambo's Sister Fluffy.
The wave out front doing its thing...
Well that's all from me for now, more surf and epic food in the forcast for today....
Shoots for now!
-Genji Nakada
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